Patek Philippe complications World Time Platinum 5230P-0001 The story of Patek Philippe’s World Time begins with Louis Cottier, the Swiss mechanical genius who invented the system capable of displaying all 24 time zones simultaneously in the early 20th century. • In 1937, Patek Philippe began experimenting with integrating Cottier’s World Time module into three of its wristwatch references: Ref. 96 HU, 515 HU, and 542 HU. Shortly thereafter, the first commercially produced World Time wristwatch was born: Reference 1415 HU. With a modest 31mm case, hand-soldered teardrop lugs, and the names of 30 cities engraved on a manually rotating bezel, the 1415 allowed the wearer to read different time zones by aligning the bezel by hand. These watches were delivered to Louis Cottier in an unassembled state. He personally completed the World Time module, fitted it to the movement, and even cut the hands himself. This gave rise to the iconic circular hour hand, a design that became a hallmark of early World Time watches. It is estimated that only around 115 pieces of the reference 1415 were produced. As a result, the model has shattered multiple auction records over the years. Most recently, a platinum Ref. 1415 was hammered at HKD 14,650,000 (approximately USD 1.8 million) at Christie’s in 2021. • 1953: Reference 2523 – A Major Evolution In 1953, Patek Philippe officially introduced Reference 2523, a significantly evolved World Time wristwatch. The case diameter increased to 35.5mm, and the lugs were redesigned with dramatic faceting, crafted for Patek by Gerlach, creating a bolder and more expressive visual presence. More importantly, the movement was upgraded to Calibre 12-400 HU, now featuring a second crown dedicated to operating the internal rotating city disk. One of the most famous examples — a double-signed Ref. 2523 with a stunning blue cloisonné enamel center — was sold by Christie’s in 2019 for USD 9 million. • 1970s–1990s: The Quartz Crisis and a Long Silence From the 1970s through the 1990s, World Time watches disappeared from Patek Philippe’s production as the industry was shaken by the Quartz Crisis. • It was not until 2000 that Patek revived the complication, unveiling Reference 5110 at Baselworld. After nearly half a century of absence, the 5110 made an immediate global impact, quickly becoming one of the most sought-after modern Patek Philippe references. The case size increased slightly to 37mm, the dial featured a radiating guilloché pattern, and the hands adopted a new lozenge shape. Power came from the automatic Calibre 240 HU, equipped with a micro-rotor. A pusher at 10 o’clock allowed the wearer to adjust the time zone effortlessly, making it one of the most user-friendly World Time watches ever produced. The platinum version with a blue-grey dial is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful modern World Timers. However, among seasoned collectors, the ultimate 5110 is the 25-piece platinum edition made in 2004 to celebrate The Hour Glass’ 25th anniversary, distinguished by the word “Singapore” printed in red on the city ring. • 2006: Reference 5130 – Refinement Through Proportion In 2006, Patek Philippe introduced Reference 5130, increasing the case size from 37mm to 39.5mm to better suit contemporary tastes. Interestingly, the inner dial became proportionally smaller, creating more space for the city ring. This allowed Patek to introduce generous and calming negative space between city names, resulting in a display that feels more serene, balanced, and legible. Patek once again employed Cottier’s iconic O-shaped “Observatory” hour hand, directly referencing the legendary Ref. 1415. • In 2008, just one year before officially becoming President of Patek Philippe, Thierry Stern ignited immense excitement among collectors with the launch of Reference 5131, marking the return of cloisonné enamel World Time dials. The appeal of the 5131 lies in its ability to restore the World Time watch to its rightful identity as an objet d’art — a piece to be admired endlessly. • 2011: Patek introduced Ref. 7130, the first World Time designed specifically for women. • 2014: Celebrating its 175th anniversary, Patek unveiled Refs. 5575 and 7175, World Time watches with hyper-realistic moonphase displays, showcasing the brand’s supreme technical mastery. • In 2016, Patek introduced the next successor, Reference 5230, following the highly successful 10-year run of the 5130. The 5230 maintains a strong spiritual connection to the Ref. 2523. Instead of faceted lugs, it features wing-shaped lugs, closely resembling those found on the Ref. 5970 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. The bezel was redesigned from a soft rounded profile to a flat surface with a sharply descending angle, and notably, this became the first modern World Timer without crown guards. The result is an exceptionally elegant watch with a more restrained 38.5mm diameter, exactly 1mm smaller than the 5130. The dial showcases the most intricate guilloché pattern ever used on a Patek World Time, with delicate waves radiating from the cannon pinion, rhythmically interrupted by wide teardrop-shaped motifs. The hour hand now evokes the Southern Constellation, while the minute hand returns to the lozenge shape seen on the 5110. Although the 5230 and 5131 are fundamentally different watches and difficult to compare, the 5230 is unquestionably a worthy successor, powered — like its predecessors — by the robust and highly precise Calibre 240 HU. That same year, Patek also introduced the World Time Chronograph Ref. 5930. • 2017: The ultra-complicated Ref. 5531R, combining World Time and Minute Repeater, was unveiled. • 2018: Patek launched Ref. 5131/1P, featuring a Northern Hemisphere cloisonné enamel map and an “Eric Clapton” style brick bracelet. • 2019: A new artistic direction for cloisonné enamel dials emerged with Reference 5231. • 2022: Patek released ref 5230P-0001 in Platinum Pt950 at Watches & Wonders exhibition. With a development history spanning nearly a century — from 1937 to today, Patek Philippe’s World Time collection stands as one of the brand’s most enduring legacies, deserving of a place of honor in the hearts of true watch connoisseurs.